When one thinks of Champagne, the varietals that most likely come to mind are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. These “Big Three” are the lifeblood of the Champagne region, making up over 99% of plantings. However, there are other, lesser-known grape varieties permitted in Champagne that play a small yet significant role in the region’s viticultural tapestry. This article delves into the fascinating world of Champagne’s lesser-known grape varieties, exploring their history, characteristics, and the unique wines they produce.
The Forgotten Grapes of Champagne
The Champagne region’s viticultural regulations permit the use of seven grape varieties. In addition to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, there are four “forgotten” varieties: Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Arbane, and Petit Meslier. These lesser-known grapes account for less than 1% of the region’s total vineyard area, but they are experiencing a modest revival as Champagne producers seek to differentiate their offerings and explore the region’s viticultural heritage.
Pinot Blanc
Pinot Blanc, also known as Blanc Vrai, is a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir. It is a versatile variety that can adapt to various climatic conditions and soil types. In Champagne, Pinot Blanc is appreciated for its ability to retain high acidity, making it suitable for the production of sparkling wines.
The grape contributes freshness and a fruity character to the wine, with aromas and flavours of green apple, citrus, and blossom. Pinot Blanc-based Champagnes are often characterised by their elegance, balance, and approachability.
While Pinot Blanc is a minor player in Champagne, it can be found in cuvées from producers like Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, who value its contribution to their blended wines.
Pinot Gris
Known locally as Fromenteau, Pinot Gris is another mutation of Pinot Noir. It is a low-yielding variety that produces rich, full-bodied wines with high alcohol potential.
Pinot Gris adds complexity and body to Champagne, with flavours ranging from ripe stone fruit and tropical notes when young, to honey and toasted nuts as it ages. However, due to its low acidity, it is typically used in small quantities in blends.
Some producers, like Laherte Frères, include Pinot Gris in their cuvées for added complexity and texture. However, it remains a rarity in the region.
Arbane
Arbane is one of the oldest grape varieties in Champagne, with a history dating back to the 17th century. It is a high-acidity, low-yielding variety that is notoriously difficult to cultivate, which led to its near extinction in the 20th century.
However, Arbane has seen a modest revival in recent years, thanks to a handful of producers who value its unique characteristics. The grape contributes high acidity and floral aromas to Champagne, with notes of citrus, pear, and white flowers.
One of the few producers who champion Arbane is Aubry, who produces a cuvée made from all seven permitted Champagne varieties, showcasing the diversity of the region.
Petit Meslier
Petit Meslier is a white grape variety native to northern France. It is a late-ripening variety that produces high-acidity wines with distinct flavors of green apple, citrus, and a hint of spice.
Petit Meslier fell out of favour due to its low yields and susceptibility to disease. However, it is being rediscovered by producers seeking to revive Champagne’s viticultural heritage. The variety is appreciated for its acidity and unique flavour profile, offering a point of difference in a region dominated by the Big Three.
Jean Milan is one of the few Champagne houses that produce a varietal Petit Meslier, offering a rare opportunity to taste this unique grape in its pure form. The wine is noted for its high acidity, complexity, and distinctive green apple and citrus characteristics.
Revival and Significance of Lesser-Known Varieties
In recent years, there has been a growing interest in Champagne’s lesser-known grape varieties. This resurgence can be attributed to several factors. First, there’s a global trend in wine towards diversity and exploration of forgotten or underappreciated grape varieties. Second, these varieties provide a link to Champagne’s history and heritage, offering a glimpse into the region’s past.
Moreover, climate change presents new challenges for the Champagne region, and these lesser-known varieties could play a role in its future. Varieties like Arbane and Petit Meslier, which are high in acidity and late-ripening, could become more valuable as temperatures continue to rise.
The Future of Lesser-Known Varieties in Champagne
While these forgotten grapes will never replace Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, they add another layer of complexity to the region’s viticultural landscape. They provide winemakers with more options for blending and allow them to create unique, distinctive cuvées that stand out in a crowded market.
Furthermore, these varieties offer wine lovers the opportunity to explore a different side of Champagne, beyond the well-trodden path of the Big Three. They invite us to delve deeper into the region’s history, to appreciate its diversity, and to celebrate its ongoing evolution.
While Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris will continue to be minor players in Champagne, their presence contributes to the richness of the region’s viticultural tapestry. They are a testament to Champagne’s enduring capacity for reinvention and renewal, and a reminder that there’s always something new to discover in this iconic wine region.
The world of Champagne is much more diverse than it might initially appear. Beyond the famed triumvirate of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, the region’s lesser-known grape varieties offer a fascinating glimpse into Champagne’s past, present, and potentially its future.
Whether you’re a wine professional, a Champagne enthusiast, or simply a curious wine drinker, exploring these lesser-known varieties provides a deeper understanding and appreciation of Champagne’s complexity and diversity. So, the next time you reach for a bottle of Champagne, consider venturing off the beaten path. You may just discover a new favourite and gain a deeper appreciation for the region’s rich viticultural heritage.
